Monday, January 14, 2008

Brazilian Dining

Ecuador's abundant and diverse fruits made for amazing breakfasts, while Argentina's fertile pampas and love for meat made for amazing dinners. Unfortunately, Ecuador's dinners weren't much to write home about and Argentines tend to be satisfied with only a cup of coffee and a small pastry for breakfast. However, Brazil, being known for their tropical fruits, hearty churrascarias, and ample snacking options, could possibly be the superfecta of South American dining.

Unlike Brazil, we were always amazed by how trim Argentines were, despite their enormous meat portions. We suspected it had something to do with less driving and more walking, or possibly all that red wine. However, probably because of their amazing and abundant food, Brazil tended to have the heaviest people of all of the countries we visited in South America. That said, Brazil was also one of the friendliest countries we visited.

Brazil definitely has a wide variety of fruit, many of which I had never previously heard of. Cashew nuts are pretty common, but I learned that cashew trees also produce a fruit, referred to as caju in Portuguese. I never saw fresh caju fruit but the juice is very common in Brazil. The first time I had it I thought I was drinking watered down lemonade made from a powder. After learning what it was, I tasted it more closely and noticed a very subtle nutty flavor, but although not bad, I wouldn't say it's one of my favorite juices.

Guaraná is a very popular soda in Brazil. It is named after the guaraná berries it is flavored with, and is very sweet and carbonated. In addition, it is often cheaper than bottled water!

One of my favorite things to drink while in Brazil was coconut milk straight from the coconut! They would simply cut a hole in the top and stick a straw in. The milk has a gently sweet and coconutty flavor. I think it tastes more watery than milky and it is extremely refreshing. One of the best parts is that after you finish drinking, you can break it open and have a little snack. However, I tried to break one open using only a rock and it took forever (I guess I'm no survivor-lady). The second time around I went to a juice bar and they cracked it open for me.


From Ilha Grande, ...



There are always ample opportunities for snacking while in Brazil. Almost every commercial corner in Brazil had at least one snack or juice bar. In addition, all along the sidewalks lining Ipanema and Copacabana beaches are snack stands. As if that wasn't enough, on the actual beaches there are dozens of vendors walking around selling beverages, açai smoothies, and even skewers of unshelled shrimp (these vendors sell much more than just food including sunglasses, purses, lime crushers, and even bikinis)! Even Praia Lopez Mendes, the remote beach on Ilha Grande that we had to hike to, had people selling sodas and sandwiches! Also on Ilha Grande, there were guys biking around enormous dessert carts. Below is a picture of one of those dessert carts:


From Ilha Grande, ...



Through our travels, we noticed that every country has a totally different type of empanada. Argentina's empanadas were the most similar to what I've had in the US. In Brazil, the empanadas looked like tiny little chicken pot pies, about the diameter of a can of soda. The crust is also similar to a flaky pie crust, and they are usually filled with chicken or cheese.

In addition to empanadas, Brazil has a wide variety of fried goodies to snack on. One of my favorites was like a fried, breaded hamburger. They kind of reminded me of my Mom's piroshkis (of course my Mom's were better). Dan's favorite was a teardrop shaped fried thing filled with chicken and cream cheese. Below is a picture of Dan eating on of those. However, according to our guide book, Brazilians never pick up their food with their bare hands, and often eat sandwiches with a knife and fork. Please excuse Dan's faux pas in the below shot:


From Ilha Grande, ...



A very common dining option in Brazil are pay by weight buffets. As opposed to the all you can eat buffets in the US, I liked how these buffets don't encourage gorging. However, pay-by-weight buffets require a totally different eating strategy than all-you-can-eat buffets. I consider myself somewhat of an expert all-you-can-eat diner. While on the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls, we splurged and went to the Sheraton's lunch buffet. It cost about $30 per person, which at the time was our most expensive meal of the trip (Brazil's stronger currency resulted in much more expensive meals). Below is a picture of each plate of food I had at the Sheraton buffet:

1st course: Appetizers

From Iguazu Falls


2nd course: Main dishes

From Iguazu Falls


3rd course: Best of appetizers and main dishes

From Iguazu Falls


4th course: Gazpacho

From Iguazu Falls


5th course: Dessert

From Iguazu Falls



However, at pay-by-weight buffets, it's all about the quality of food, not the quantity. Rice, pasta, and beans tend to be heavy yet less expensive, so they should be avoided. Meat is a much better alternative. Many pay-by-weight buffets had sushi and shell fish, but I skipped that at some of the less fancy buffets. Another thing to avoid at pay-by-weight buffets is leaving any food behind. However, Dan and I were new to Brazilian cuisine, and we weren't always sure what we were going to like. At our first pay-by-weight buffet we first got little portions of everything we wanted to try. Later we went back and got larger portions of the things we liked. However, I don't think this is standard practice in Brazil because the woman who weighed our plates seemed to find us very amusing.

Brazil is also known for their all you can eat steak houses, called churrascarias. The first churrascaria we went to, called Porcão, was almost exactly like Fogo de Chão. In addition to an amazing buffet, they also have gaúchos walking around with big skewers of meat. Each person is given a little circular card that is green on one side and red on the other, and turning the card to the green side indicates to the gaúchos that you want more meat. Each gaúcho specially prepares the meat that they are serving, and it all looks so good that it is difficult to turn them down. I call the green/red card the meat faucet, because if you leave it on too long you will inevitably end up with a plate piled high with meat. The biggest difference I noticed between Brazilian and US churrascarias is that Brazilian churrascarias serve corazóns, or chicken hearts. Each one is about the size of a large kidney bean and the gaúchos carry enormous skewers of them. Unless you stop them, they'll give you a plate full! Personally, I really like corazóns, but only in moderation.

Our last night in Rio we tried to go to a seafood churrascaria, called Marius. Half of the restaurant is a regular meat serving churrascaria and the other half serves seafood, including lobster tails! However, we were shocked to learn that the seafood side cost about $80 per person not including drinks, so we decided to settle for the regular meat side. However, apparently everyone else thought the seafood was too expensive as well because the meat side was totally packed and the seafood side was fairly empty. The Maitre 'D told us it would be a 10 minute wait. The restaurant is covered in cutesy nautical themed decorations, which is a little annoying when you're really hungry. 40 minutes later they finally seated us, but they put us in the upstairs area of the seafood side. They assured us that we would still get good service, but I had my doubts since we were so far from the meat kitchen. We decided to leave, hopped in a cab, and asked him to take us to a good churrascaria. He took us to this little place just around the corner from the Copacabana Palace. It had a live pianist who was playing pretty cheesy music, but the food was delicious and it was a perfect end to our trip.

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Brasil!

Top 10 things I learned while in Brazil:

10. You haven't truly been to Brazil unless you've heard "The Girl from Ipanema" played by at least five different groups
From Rio de Janier...


9. Açai is a type of berry, and açai smoothies (tastes like a blackberry icee with banana and granola on top) are supposedly energizing, but definitely filling
From Ilha Grande, ...


8. Brazilians are serious about their desert carts
From Ilha Grande, ...


7. Skol beer tastes better than Skol vodka, but passion fruit caipirinhas are divine
From Ilha Grande, ...


6. Instead of having people on their money, Brazil uses animals.
From Rio de Janier...


5. Portuguese looks pretty similar to Spanish, but sounds more like Dutch.
From Rio de Janier...


4. Instead of using a bidet, Brazilians only need a hose.
From Rio de Janier...


3. Don't believe locals when they claim there aren't any mosquitoes
From Iguazu Falls


2. Jesus loves Brazil
From Rio de Janier...


1. We love Brazil

From Rio de Janier...

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Brazil -- The End of the Trip

Hello and Happy New Year!

Shortly, I'll be joining Carrie out in California, as we prepare to head back to reality. Until then, I might as well write about what we did to finish our epic South American journey. At Iguazu Falls, we crossed the border from Argentina to Brazil. Our original plans for Brazil included locations up in the Northern Coast, but due to fatigue and lack of time, we decided to simplify things.

After our time at the Brazilian Falls and Itapu Dam, we boarded a plane to Rio de Janiero. Our plan was to first investigate the island of Ilha Grande, then finish the trip in the city of Rio. With that in mind, we rode a 3 hour bus from Rio to the town of Angra dos Reis, where we found a place to stay for the night. The next morning, we investigated boats to Ilha Grande. We discovered that the "official" ferry left town at 1:30pm, but there appeared to be some "unofficial" looking guys willing to take us at 10:30am. Since we were eager to get to the island, we decided to take our chances with the unofficial boat. While it seemed a bit shady at times, it turned out fine, and 1.5 hours later, we were at the island.

From Ilha Grande, ...

The Island consists of one main town of about 3000 people, and has no cars besides one emergency vehicle. We quickly discovered that people freely walk down the main streets barefoot and in swimsuits (which don't consist of much in Brazil). We stayed at the Pousada Beira Mar, owned by a friendly German named Lutz, who thankfully spoke perfect English. Lutz enjoyed telling us his many travel stories and was very helpful in helping us decide what to do while on the island.

Ilha Grande is supposedly home to over 100 beaches, so needless to say, the primary activity on the island is going to the beach. The most famous beach on the island (and possibly in all of Brazil), was Praia Lopez Mendes. To get there from the main town, we could either hike 3 hours each way, or ride a 45 minute boat followed by a 30 minute hike. For the first day, we hiked to the beach, stopping along the way for a pleasant lunch along the water. We also stumbled upon some monkeys along the hike, but since we were scared of theft, we didn't have our camera with us to take pictures.

The next day, we went on a boat ride / tour, where we got to see other parts of the island. At one stop, we hiked into a cave, which got quite claustrophobic as crawling was necessary at times. Once we got further into the cave, there was a pool of water where we could wade and observe fish swimming in the distance. Outside the cave, we also made a boat stop at a lagoon where we did more swimming and snorkeling, before stopping for lunch and heading back.

On our third day on the island, we decided to take the easy boat ride back to Lopez Mendes beach, and bring our camera. Here are some photos:

One of the boat drivers:
From Ilha Grande, ...


The beach:
From Ilha Grande, ...


Drinking out of a coconut while waiting for our boat ride back:
From Ilha Grande, ...

As we waited for our 5pm boat ride back, we noticed ominous clouds moving in. Around 4:45, rain started falling. Since we were in our bathing suits, we weren't too bothered by this at first. However, after boarding the boat, the rain started coming down harder, and the roof of our boat was not shielding us all that well. Midway through the boat ride, the rain was pouring down in sheets, with high winds blowing the rain horizontally into the boat, where it pelted us with a hail-like strength and intensity. Our boat driver struggled to steer the boat due to the blinding rain blowing directly into his eyes. Huddled together with the fellow travelers, we couldn't help but laugh at the absurdity of the situation. Thankfully, we made it back safely to the town and dried off.

It rained for the remainder of our time on the island, so we spent most of the time relaxing after attempting to hike in the rain and realizing it was not a good idea. After that, we left the island and headed to Rio de Janiero!

Our first hotel in Rio was the Hotel Vermont, in Ipanema. Due to repeated warnings from travelers, family, and Ilha Grande residents, we were extremely cautious with our belongings in Rio, and therefore didn't bring out the camera much. Ipanema was a nice area, with the town having decent (but expensive) shopping, and the immense beach two blocks from our hotel. The beach itself was quite the scene, with all sorts of different types of people crowding together enjoying the sun and very intense surf. We ventured in to test the waters, and quickly realized that we were no match for the immense waves and strong current. Instead, we enjoyed the sun and witnessed the interesting sport of futvoli (volleyball without hands). The video below is from youtube -- we didn't take it:



We also took in some Bossa Nova, and I was thrilled to watch some great music after so much Andean Flute and Tango, which hadn't excited me as much. One night, we went to a smaller club, and the next, we went to a 3 floor club where they had a 10 piece band! The music was great at the clubs, and I also bought numerous CDs from the local bossa nova music store.

After a few days in Ipanema, we switched hotels and moved to Copacabana to finish the trip. Since this was the end, we decided to splurge, and we got to enjoy this view from our hotel room:

From Rio de Janier...


One day, we decided to visit Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer). This immense statue is located atop a mountain, and the view overlooks nearly the entire city. Here are some photos:

From Rio de Janier...


From Rio de Janier...


Another day, we decided to try hang gliding. Here, we were driven to the top of a mountain, where we got strapped into some wings with a guide, then ran off of a platform and hoped that our wings would fly!



For our last night, we sipped caipirinhas along the beach, before heading to a churrascaria for some all you can eat meat!

From Rio de Janier...

All in all, I really enjoyed Brazil. Over time, little things kept happening that made us really appreciate the people and culture of Brazil. From the fresh fruit juice stands and snack bars at every block, to people politely asking at restaurants if their smoking is bothering neighboring tables (and doing something about it if it was), to the music, to the beaches, to the laid back personalities (despite our lack of Portuguese), I really felt at home here. I think Carrie and I both felt like if we hadn't been so tired and short on time, we could have spent a long time exploring Brazil. Perhaps someday we can head back to Brazil to explore some more!

Coming soon -- A final wrap up of the trip!

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Iguazu vs Niagra (and other ramblings)

From Iguazu Falls

Please note that all the pictures/movies in this posting are from the Iguazu falls. If you would like to see pictures/movies of the Niagara falls, please see our Niagara Falls posting by clicking HERE.

Last summer we went to Niagara Falls and the next summer (which, thanks to changing hemispheres, was only four months later) we went to Iguazu Falls. The entire time I toured Iguazu falls, I couldn't help but compare them with Niagara. Niagara Falls are hands down the best falls in North America and Iguazu Falls are hands down the best falls in South America. However, the similarities don't stop there.

Niagara Falls are on the border between the USA and Canada, while Iguazu Falls are between Argentina and Brazil. The USA and Argentina are on the southern side of the falls, and both countries provide a much more intimate viewing of the their falls. At USA Niagara you can ride a boat called "Maid of the Mist" where they provide you with a rain jacket and you ride right up next to the falls. At Argentina Iguazu the boat ride is called the Nautic Adventure. There they don't even bother to give you a jacket because they ride up so close you literally can't see anything but water. Most people stripped down to their underwear or swimsuits for the ride. I wore my rain jacket, but the water poured down my neck and up my sleeves, so only the middle of my back stayed dry. Dan didn't wear the hood of his jacket so he got completely soaked. Below is a picture of us on the Nautic Adventure:

From Iguazu Falls


The USA and Argentina falls both also have catwalks where you can walk right next to the falls. The US catwalks are called "Cave of the Winds". Although you have to wait in a pretty long line, they give you a rain jacket and silly little slippers to wear. Then you get to walk so close to the falls that at times it is difficult to move forward because the wind/water is so strong. In Argentina they have the "Passeios Inferiores", which is 1.5 km of walkways that weave around the lower part of the falls. Although these are much more extensive than their US counterpart and you can get equally wet if you so desire, they aren't quite as intense as their US counterpart.

From Iguazu Falls


In both the USA and Argentina you can also walk around the top of the falls. However, with the Argentine version you can get much closer to the falls. It is actually broken into two sections called Garganta do Diablo (for the biggest waterfall) and Passeios Superiores (for most other falls). Garganta do Diablo translates to devil's throat, and seeing all those tons of frothy water come erupting out of the river is quite hypnotizing:

From Iguazu Falls


The Passeios Superiores is especially great on sunny days because in addition to the falls, you can see tons of rainbows. The first day we went to the falls it was pouring rain by the time we got to the Passeios Superiores, but the next day was sunny so we went back, and it was well worth the repeat trip. Below is a movie taken from the Passeios Superiores, but if you can't see it, try clicking here.



However, crossing the international borders was definitely easier in North America, which simply involved paying a small fee and walking across a bridge right next to the parks. In South America we had to take a bus between the Argentine and Brazilian towns in addition to taking separate buses from the towns to their respective falls. This would have been very difficult to do in one day. We ended up spending two days on the Argentine side and one day on the Brazilian side.

We also had to get a Brazilian visa because we were planning to travel around Brazil after seeing the falls (you can avoid getting a visa if you only go to Brazil for the day). For every other South American country we just showed up at the border and paid nothing. However, for Brazil they require that you apply for a visa in advance and pay them $100 US (however, I can't be too mad about the $100 because Brazil charges everyone however much their country charges Brazilians to enter, and the US charges them $100 for visas). We couldn't get our Brazilian visas before leaving for our trip because they are only good for 3 months and we were going to Brazil at the end of our 3.5 month trip. We tried to get them in Buenos Aires, Argentina a few weeks before heading up to Iguazu. However, after first finding our way to the Brazilian embassy, being told we were at the wrong place, and then making it to the Brazilian consulate, we found that they were only open in the morning. Fortunately, the security guard was able to give us the huge list of things we needed to obtain the visa, including exit tickets for how we would leave Brazil, entry tickets for how we would enter Brazil, address and phone number of where we would be staying in Brazil, credit card photo copies, and two months worth of bank statements.

The next morning we woke up early and headed down to the Brazilian consulate with as much of the info as we could muster. There were about five groups ahead of us in line, and one by one we saw each one of them get rejected. As each one of them left, I asked what they were missing. One girl said she hadn't yet booked her hotel in Brazil so she didn't have a Brazilian address. We were in the same predicament, so the people ahead of us in line let us copy their address. I felt like I was cheating on a test, but seriously, why do they need that, especially if we planned on staying in three or four different hotel while in Brazil. However, we still got rejected because we didn't have entry tickets. We were planning to hop on a bus to take us across the Iguazu border, which is literally as formal as hopping on a CTA (local Chicago) bus, so there was no way to purchase advance tickets. We explained the situation to the lady behind the counter, so she suggested that we should just wait and get our visas in Iguazu. I worried about waiting until the last minute to get our visas, but it turned out to be MUCH easier there. All we had to do was fill out a form and pay them the $100 and we had our visas in less than an hour. They didn't even ask to see tickets, bank statements, or even yellow cards (proof of immunizations)! We learned that getting visas in BsAs in nearly impossible, but then again, we found that any sort of administrative task, such as buying plane tickets, calling home, or booking hotels, is a huge pain there.

So any way, back to Iguazu versus Niagara. Brazil and Canada are both on the northern side of their falls. However, Canada is the much more touristy side for Niagara, but Argentina is actually the more the touristy side for Iguazu. Foz do Iguaçu, the Brazilian town, is big enough that it has more going on than just the falls. I suspect that it is closer aligned with Buffalo, NY. On the other hand, both the Canadian and Brazilian sides focus much more on the panoramic views of the falls rather than getting right up in there like you do in the US and Argentina. However, unlike Canada, Brazil provides a little bit more than just the panoramic view. You also get to ride a cute little double decker bus from the park's edge to the falls, and there is one catwalk that will get you a little wet (although not near as wet as you can get in Argentina or the USA).

From Iguazu Falls


One thing that Iguazu has that Niagara definitely lacks is the jungle and all of the fun jungle animals. In Argentina we saw the following:

Giant lizard animal (its body was about a foot long):
From Iguazu Falls


Several packs of raccoon-like animals called coatis:
From Iguazu Falls


Some sort of rodent that looked like a cross between a guinea pig and a rat:
From Iguazu Falls


In Brazil we saw hundreds of millipedes all over that path that were anywhere from 2-8 inches long:
From Iguazu Falls


On both sides we saw tons of pretty butterflies:
From Iguazu Falls


Since there was not quite as much to do on the Brazilian side of the falls, we also went to see the light show at the Itaipu Dam. The Itaipu Dam provides 94% of Paraguay's electricity and 20% of Brazil's electricity, but it also caused a lot of debt for Brazil and destroyed a lot of rain forest in its making. It was obvious that the light show was an attempt to get people to accept the dam. We had to arrive an hour early for the show, and many of the ladies were wearing nice cocktail dresses. Fortunately, I had on my nicest jeans, sparkle butt and all. When it was time for the show to start we piled into buses. There were so many people at the show it took five buses to fit us all! The buses let us out on a hill overlooking the dam. The lights dimmed and two Vegas-style announcers came out and welcomed us. Then we watched a short video on the making of the dam, which, judging by the soundtrack, was created sometime in the mid-70's. Finally, the video screens lifted and it was time for the show! We heard music, and with each phrase of the song, another portion of the dam would light up. As the music got more intense, the dam got brighter and brighter. After about five minutes, the song was over and the dam was completely lit up. Then the music stopped and everyone got up to leave. We piled back into the buses, did a quick drive down closer to the damn, and then headed back to the entrance gates. It was neat seeing the dam, but the show could use a little work.

From Iguazu Falls


Overall, I'd say that both Niagara and Iguazu falls are amazing. However, if you're tight on time, the southern side of the falls (USA or Argentina) tend to be a little more thrilling. Avoid getting a Brazilian visa in Buenos Aires at all costs, and unless you're really excited about dams, I'd skip the Itaipu light show.

From Iguazu Falls