Showing posts with label waterfalls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label waterfalls. Show all posts

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Iguazu vs Niagra (and other ramblings)

From Iguazu Falls

Please note that all the pictures/movies in this posting are from the Iguazu falls. If you would like to see pictures/movies of the Niagara falls, please see our Niagara Falls posting by clicking HERE.

Last summer we went to Niagara Falls and the next summer (which, thanks to changing hemispheres, was only four months later) we went to Iguazu Falls. The entire time I toured Iguazu falls, I couldn't help but compare them with Niagara. Niagara Falls are hands down the best falls in North America and Iguazu Falls are hands down the best falls in South America. However, the similarities don't stop there.

Niagara Falls are on the border between the USA and Canada, while Iguazu Falls are between Argentina and Brazil. The USA and Argentina are on the southern side of the falls, and both countries provide a much more intimate viewing of the their falls. At USA Niagara you can ride a boat called "Maid of the Mist" where they provide you with a rain jacket and you ride right up next to the falls. At Argentina Iguazu the boat ride is called the Nautic Adventure. There they don't even bother to give you a jacket because they ride up so close you literally can't see anything but water. Most people stripped down to their underwear or swimsuits for the ride. I wore my rain jacket, but the water poured down my neck and up my sleeves, so only the middle of my back stayed dry. Dan didn't wear the hood of his jacket so he got completely soaked. Below is a picture of us on the Nautic Adventure:

From Iguazu Falls


The USA and Argentina falls both also have catwalks where you can walk right next to the falls. The US catwalks are called "Cave of the Winds". Although you have to wait in a pretty long line, they give you a rain jacket and silly little slippers to wear. Then you get to walk so close to the falls that at times it is difficult to move forward because the wind/water is so strong. In Argentina they have the "Passeios Inferiores", which is 1.5 km of walkways that weave around the lower part of the falls. Although these are much more extensive than their US counterpart and you can get equally wet if you so desire, they aren't quite as intense as their US counterpart.

From Iguazu Falls


In both the USA and Argentina you can also walk around the top of the falls. However, with the Argentine version you can get much closer to the falls. It is actually broken into two sections called Garganta do Diablo (for the biggest waterfall) and Passeios Superiores (for most other falls). Garganta do Diablo translates to devil's throat, and seeing all those tons of frothy water come erupting out of the river is quite hypnotizing:

From Iguazu Falls


The Passeios Superiores is especially great on sunny days because in addition to the falls, you can see tons of rainbows. The first day we went to the falls it was pouring rain by the time we got to the Passeios Superiores, but the next day was sunny so we went back, and it was well worth the repeat trip. Below is a movie taken from the Passeios Superiores, but if you can't see it, try clicking here.



However, crossing the international borders was definitely easier in North America, which simply involved paying a small fee and walking across a bridge right next to the parks. In South America we had to take a bus between the Argentine and Brazilian towns in addition to taking separate buses from the towns to their respective falls. This would have been very difficult to do in one day. We ended up spending two days on the Argentine side and one day on the Brazilian side.

We also had to get a Brazilian visa because we were planning to travel around Brazil after seeing the falls (you can avoid getting a visa if you only go to Brazil for the day). For every other South American country we just showed up at the border and paid nothing. However, for Brazil they require that you apply for a visa in advance and pay them $100 US (however, I can't be too mad about the $100 because Brazil charges everyone however much their country charges Brazilians to enter, and the US charges them $100 for visas). We couldn't get our Brazilian visas before leaving for our trip because they are only good for 3 months and we were going to Brazil at the end of our 3.5 month trip. We tried to get them in Buenos Aires, Argentina a few weeks before heading up to Iguazu. However, after first finding our way to the Brazilian embassy, being told we were at the wrong place, and then making it to the Brazilian consulate, we found that they were only open in the morning. Fortunately, the security guard was able to give us the huge list of things we needed to obtain the visa, including exit tickets for how we would leave Brazil, entry tickets for how we would enter Brazil, address and phone number of where we would be staying in Brazil, credit card photo copies, and two months worth of bank statements.

The next morning we woke up early and headed down to the Brazilian consulate with as much of the info as we could muster. There were about five groups ahead of us in line, and one by one we saw each one of them get rejected. As each one of them left, I asked what they were missing. One girl said she hadn't yet booked her hotel in Brazil so she didn't have a Brazilian address. We were in the same predicament, so the people ahead of us in line let us copy their address. I felt like I was cheating on a test, but seriously, why do they need that, especially if we planned on staying in three or four different hotel while in Brazil. However, we still got rejected because we didn't have entry tickets. We were planning to hop on a bus to take us across the Iguazu border, which is literally as formal as hopping on a CTA (local Chicago) bus, so there was no way to purchase advance tickets. We explained the situation to the lady behind the counter, so she suggested that we should just wait and get our visas in Iguazu. I worried about waiting until the last minute to get our visas, but it turned out to be MUCH easier there. All we had to do was fill out a form and pay them the $100 and we had our visas in less than an hour. They didn't even ask to see tickets, bank statements, or even yellow cards (proof of immunizations)! We learned that getting visas in BsAs in nearly impossible, but then again, we found that any sort of administrative task, such as buying plane tickets, calling home, or booking hotels, is a huge pain there.

So any way, back to Iguazu versus Niagara. Brazil and Canada are both on the northern side of their falls. However, Canada is the much more touristy side for Niagara, but Argentina is actually the more the touristy side for Iguazu. Foz do Iguaçu, the Brazilian town, is big enough that it has more going on than just the falls. I suspect that it is closer aligned with Buffalo, NY. On the other hand, both the Canadian and Brazilian sides focus much more on the panoramic views of the falls rather than getting right up in there like you do in the US and Argentina. However, unlike Canada, Brazil provides a little bit more than just the panoramic view. You also get to ride a cute little double decker bus from the park's edge to the falls, and there is one catwalk that will get you a little wet (although not near as wet as you can get in Argentina or the USA).

From Iguazu Falls


One thing that Iguazu has that Niagara definitely lacks is the jungle and all of the fun jungle animals. In Argentina we saw the following:

Giant lizard animal (its body was about a foot long):
From Iguazu Falls


Several packs of raccoon-like animals called coatis:
From Iguazu Falls


Some sort of rodent that looked like a cross between a guinea pig and a rat:
From Iguazu Falls


In Brazil we saw hundreds of millipedes all over that path that were anywhere from 2-8 inches long:
From Iguazu Falls


On both sides we saw tons of pretty butterflies:
From Iguazu Falls


Since there was not quite as much to do on the Brazilian side of the falls, we also went to see the light show at the Itaipu Dam. The Itaipu Dam provides 94% of Paraguay's electricity and 20% of Brazil's electricity, but it also caused a lot of debt for Brazil and destroyed a lot of rain forest in its making. It was obvious that the light show was an attempt to get people to accept the dam. We had to arrive an hour early for the show, and many of the ladies were wearing nice cocktail dresses. Fortunately, I had on my nicest jeans, sparkle butt and all. When it was time for the show to start we piled into buses. There were so many people at the show it took five buses to fit us all! The buses let us out on a hill overlooking the dam. The lights dimmed and two Vegas-style announcers came out and welcomed us. Then we watched a short video on the making of the dam, which, judging by the soundtrack, was created sometime in the mid-70's. Finally, the video screens lifted and it was time for the show! We heard music, and with each phrase of the song, another portion of the dam would light up. As the music got more intense, the dam got brighter and brighter. After about five minutes, the song was over and the dam was completely lit up. Then the music stopped and everyone got up to leave. We piled back into the buses, did a quick drive down closer to the damn, and then headed back to the entrance gates. It was neat seeing the dam, but the show could use a little work.

From Iguazu Falls


Overall, I'd say that both Niagara and Iguazu falls are amazing. However, if you're tight on time, the southern side of the falls (USA or Argentina) tend to be a little more thrilling. Avoid getting a Brazilian visa in Buenos Aires at all costs, and unless you're really excited about dams, I'd skip the Itaipu light show.

From Iguazu Falls

Thursday, November 8, 2007

More Quito, and Baños

Hello!

Carrie and I are actually in Punta del Este, Uruguay right now! We had stopped over in Buenos Aires (and will be back), but we wanted to try out the beach here. Unfortunately, mother nature is once again interfering, but hopefully things will warm up soon. Ecuador was truly a wonderful place -- out of Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador, we would be most likely to return to Ecuador for another vacation someday. My last post ended with the Galapagos... After that, we were back in Quito for a more extended stay.

Our main goal after arriving back in Quito was to arrange a flight out of Ecuador to Argentina. We were quickly getting worried when one-way fares were exceeding $600 and $700! However, we got lucky when we ran into another one of our mysterious contacts. In Quito, we frequently ran into a friendly older guy named Diego, who was originally from the US. He seemed well versed in all things Ecuador, and had given us advice on other things before. He told us to go to a specific travel agency (Galasam) to look into airfares. Low and behold, this travel agency hooked us up with flights to Buenos Aires for less than $400. Thank you Diego!

One day in Quito, we headed into "Old Town", or the historic center of the city. We were disappointed by many museums and sites being either closed or under construction, but still enjoyed ourselves walking around and seeing various buildings and plazas. Even walking the streets is scenic. I love how you can look down a street and see mountains looming in the background:

From Quito, Ecuador


Another neat place we found in Quito was Parque Carolina (recommended by our friend Diego). This was basically a very large park with lots of activities, and we found a little museum containing lots of snakes! One of the feature activities was actually holding a snake. In this photo, the snake is actually licking Carrie's back!

From Quito, Ecuador


Since we always stayed at the same hotel in Quito, we got quite used to our neighborhood. Our hotel didn't include breakfast, so we quickly found favorite places for breakfast. One of them was called "Friends", and they really hooked it up for only about $3!

From Quito, Ecuador


All in all, we felt like Quito was one of the first cities we felt that we could live in. It had an easy to navigate transit system, lots of good restaurants, fun bars, and friendly people. I found bars where I could watch the World Series, and was amused by how the Ecuadorians cheered at every exciting play, regardless of who was making it. When we were finished with Quito, we followed some other traveler's recommendations and headed to the small town of Baños, about 3 hours south of Quito.

We quickly realized that Baños was a great town! It is nestled in a valley between tall, beautiful, and green mountains. There is a volcano nearby that we occasionally got glimpses of, but it was frequently covered over by clouds. Since we were missing the wedding of our good friends Jessica and Anthony at this time, we decided we would do a scenic bike ride in their honor. From Baños, you can rent bikes for $5 and follow the road to Puyo, a town about 60km away. The ride is advertised as being all downhill and full of scenic waterfall views. Other than some occasional bike chain problems, the ride did not disappoint! Here are some photos:

From Baños, Ecuador


From Baños, Ecuador


This picture is from a cable car we took across the valley towards a waterfall:

From Baños, Ecuador


"The Devil" Waterfall:

From Baños, Ecuador


After lunch, we found out that the ride wasn't entirely downhill, and faced some rough uphill stretches. For this reason, and because we spent so much time exploring waterfalls, we didn't go all the way to Puyo. We waited by the side of the road, and after about 10 minutes, a yellow minivan taxi pulled up, offering to take us (with our bikes) back to Baños for $3!

Another highlight of Baños was the abundance of thermal springs to bathe in. After an outdoor activity during the day, we would go to one of the bathing areas to relax. Most places had pools of different temperatures, and since we were there during the week, the crowds weren't too bad. We don't have bathing pictures, but here is me at one of the places before we got in:

From Baños, Ecuador


On the day after the bike ride, we decided to go white water rafting. There are a couple popular rivers for rafting there, and we opted for the more challenging (and more fun) Rio Pastaza with its class 4 rapids. Our company (Geotours) was great, and the guide would often intentionally lead the boat into situations that resulted in everyone getting brutally splashed, without tipping over the boat. I don't have photos from the actual rafting, but we did take a break midway through where we got to jump into the river from the surrounding rocks:

From Baños, Ecuador


The other major event in Baños was the Red Sox being in the World Series! Suddenly, having cable tv available became a high priority, as the games were all on ESPN Deportes (the spanish language ESPN). After having some room switching issues with our hotel, I was able to watch the deciding game 4. Here are some photos of me celebrating with all of Red Sox nation in Baños:

From Baños, Ecuador


After the final out, I went into the streets to celebrate with everyone!

From Baños, Ecuador


All in all, Baños was a great time. It was mostly relaxing (other than our hotel situation), and it had beautiful scenery. I loved how you could do fun athletic activities during the day and then relax in soothing baths while gazing at a waterfall at night. How can you beat that?

To any potential Baños travelers reading this post: A note on our hotels... The Hosteria Monte Selva seems like a great place. It has some nice cabins up on the hill, as well as its own jacuzzis and thermal baths. However, their staff is very deceptive and sometimes tells you outright lies. For instance, if your cable isn't working and they say someone will come up to help you, that is not true. Also, despite the cards in the room that say the jacuzzis and thermal baths are open every day, they are in fact only open on the weekends! So, if you're like us and arrive on a Sunday, you will be disappointed the next day when you discover everything you had paid extra for is closed. If you're coming during the week, I'd highly recommend the Hostel Isla de Baños, literally right across the street, with nice rooms for half the price!

After Baños, we headed to the beautiful town of Cuenca, before heading out of Ecuador. Look for a post from Carrie soon!